Days here
There is nothing to do, which is the entire point.
Nothing here is scheduled and nothing needs booking in advance. This is simply what a day tends to turn into.
Out of the gate and up, before the heat.
A track leaves from behind the house and climbs onto the escarpment. Half an hour of quartzite and thorn scrub and you are on the top, looking back at the haze sitting in the valley.
Peafowl, parakeets, and if you are early and quiet, nilgai on the slope below. Bring water; there is nothing up there but the view.
Eaten outside, and in no hurry.
Eggs however you want them, fruit from the plain below, parathas if you ask the night before, and coffee that keeps arriving. It happens on the terrace unless the weather makes that a bad idea.
Most people are still at the table at eleven.
The country around here is full of old stone.
Delhi and the country around it are full of tombs, stepwells and fort walls that are not on any itinerary and usually have nobody in them. Chhatris on a rise, a baoli going down into the dark, a wall with nothing behind it any more.
Ask at the house and someone will point you at whichever is worth the drive that week.
15:00 — the long afternoon
The water is warm, the book is bad, and nobody is expecting you anywhere.
A cook, a fire, and one long table.
Regional food, cooked here, brought out in courses that arrive whenever they are ready. Say what you do and do not eat when you book and it is taken care of.
If you would rather cook, the kitchen is properly equipped and completely yours.
Far enough out that the sky works again.
Turn the terrace lights off and give it ten minutes. What you get is not a dark-sky reserve, but it is a great deal more than the city has to offer, and on a clear winter night it is genuinely worth the cold.
Two nights is enough. Three is better.
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